|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-27-2014 07:55 AM|
General recommendations are that synthetic should't be used until the engine is broken in. This is a particularly important time if you want the piston rings to seal properly.
In general, a good mineral based oil will work very well. If you are putting extra loads, rpm, and heat cycles through the oil, a synthetic may be worth considering. In most countries, oil companies are allowed to market their hydrocracked group 3 mineral oils as synthetic. Where a true synthetic will be a group 4 oil. If you really want a synthetic, then maybe you should be aware of this.
Essentially you can use any oil that meets the standards recommendations in the service manual. Oils are classified by viscosity. Higher numbers equal thicker oils. They are also rated by various standard bodies, e.g. API or JASO. API ratings are expressed as SA, through to current SN oils. This isn't so much a quality, but a technical application rating. For instance, oils of SG ratings can be of great quality, but not compatible with catalytic converters, they have too much zinc and phosphorous anti wear additives (ZDP or ZDDP). JASO ratings have become more important with motorcycles over recent years. Certain anti friction additives, and the light viscosities used in modern car oils, can cause clutch slipping and gear face damage in bikes these days. So any bike with a clutch that runs in the engine oil will need a JASO MA rated oil. This certifies that the oil is designed for use with wet clutches.
The real advantage with synthetic oils is their viscosity stability. multigrade mineral oils use viscosity index improvers. These long chain polymers knit together to help the oils viscosity properties change as the oil warms. It is these viscosity index improvers that break down through shearing and heat cycles. Because synthetic oils don't use viscosity index improvers, they retain their viscosity for a longer period of time.
That said, good mineral oils that are changed regularly will provide excellent engine protection.
|10-28-2014 10:07 PM|
I put in full synthetic Repsol at the 600 mile oil change and haven't had any problems whatsoever.
I've rode the bike hard for over 3000 miles and never had one problem with the clutch slipping because of the synthetic oil.
|01-21-2014 09:18 PM|
Found this video From Yamaha/Yamalube.
I will be sticking with Yamalube in order to not cause premature harm to my Clutch.
Since that is the main factor in motorcycle oils that use the same oil for both the engine and transmission, but I will be going with the full synthetic 15W-50 at my next oil change since our engine has a high RPM (11,000 RPM RedLine) unlike Cruisers/Choppers (6,000 RPM RedLine).
The video also states about using Fully synthetic oil is perfectly fine for break in, but is wasted because of having to change it so soon.
They add other interesting comments.
|01-21-2014 01:35 PM|
Originally Posted by mr.smith View Post
|01-21-2014 12:49 PM|
|mr.smith||Does Yamaha have a recommendation of what type of oil to use and is it different from the advice laid out here? Does it matter at all how you ride your bike, or is this advice good no matter what you are using your FZ-09 for?|
|01-21-2014 11:07 AM|
Originally Posted by harrywz View Post
|01-21-2014 10:57 AM|
Originally Posted by Gtlwon View Post
|01-21-2014 10:37 AM|
|Gtlwon||That is exactly what I did, I changed my oil around 630 miles. Are you ever going to use synthetic? I was told to let my engine break in with regular oil before I use synthetic, but if I change my oil often I should be good with non-synthetic oil. Thoughts?|
|01-20-2014 10:31 PM|
Completed First Oil Change
Well, I did my first oil change and filter at 640 Miles.
Had to use an cut milk jug to catch the oil because my oil pan that I use is too tall by about 1/4 to were i cant take the plug out.
Other than that it went smoothly.
I put in Yamalube 10W-40 and its easy just to pick up their filter when at Yamaha parts.