Completed First Oil Change - Yamaha FZ-09 Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 01-20-2014, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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Completed First Oil Change

Well, I did my first oil change and filter at 640 Miles.
Had to use an cut milk jug to catch the oil because my oil pan that I use is too tall by about 1/4 to were i cant take the plug out.

Other than that it went smoothly.

I put in Yamalube 10W-40 and its easy just to pick up their filter when at Yamaha parts.
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post #2 of 9 Old 01-21-2014, 11:37 AM
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That is exactly what I did, I changed my oil around 630 miles. Are you ever going to use synthetic? I was told to let my engine break in with regular oil before I use synthetic, but if I change my oil often I should be good with non-synthetic oil. Thoughts?
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post #3 of 9 Old 01-21-2014, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Gtlwon View Post
That is exactly what I did, I changed my oil around 630 miles. Are you ever going to use synthetic? I was told to let my engine break in with regular oil before I use synthetic, but if I change my oil often I should be good with non-synthetic oil. Thoughts?
There are different ideas on using synthetic. What I usually do is change to synthetic at the 3rd oil change. Theory is using regular oil allows parts to wear in properly and then synthetic after that protects the surfaces. Some people tend to replace right after first oil change. Some have replaced oil when purchased. It all depends on whose opinions you read. Yes some motorcycles come with synthetic right from factory but the high performance units are run on a dyno before being installed. Synthetic oil changes are supposed to be spaced farther apart mileage wise so instead of changing at 3000 miles you change at 5000 or 6000 miles and if you still change at 3000 you are wasting your money. I replaced my 09 R1 with synthetic and I ended up getting better gas mileage and it ran a bit quieter. So basically its ones own preference. The debate between dino oil and synthetic has been going on for years and will go on for many more.



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post #4 of 9 Old 01-21-2014, 12:07 PM
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There are different ideas on using synthetic. What I usually do is change to synthetic at the 3rd oil change. Theory is using regular oil allows parts to wear in properly and then synthetic after that protects the surfaces. Some people tend to replace right after first oil change. Some have replaced oil when purchased. It all depends on whose opinions you read. Yes some motorcycles come with synthetic right from factory but the high performance units are run on a dyno before being installed. Synthetic oil changes are supposed to be spaced farther apart mileage wise so instead of changing at 3000 miles you change at 5000 or 6000 miles and if you still change at 3000 you are wasting your money. I replaced my 09 R1 with synthetic and I ended up getting better gas mileage and it ran a bit quieter. So basically its ones own preference. The debate between dino oil and synthetic has been going on for years and will go on for many more.
Very good! I appreciate your input.
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post #5 of 9 Old 01-21-2014, 01:49 PM
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Does Yamaha have a recommendation of what type of oil to use and is it different from the advice laid out here? Does it matter at all how you ride your bike, or is this advice good no matter what you are using your FZ-09 for?
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post #6 of 9 Old 01-21-2014, 02:35 PM
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Does Yamaha have a recommendation of what type of oil to use and is it different from the advice laid out here? Does it matter at all how you ride your bike, or is this advice good no matter what you are using your FZ-09 for?
If you ride hard like you're some moto GP racer, then you'll want to change your oil before the oil service interval stated in the owners manual. Never hurts to overkill maintenance.
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post #7 of 9 Old 01-21-2014, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Found this video From Yamaha/Yamalube.

Yamalube


I will be sticking with Yamalube in order to not cause premature harm to my Clutch.
Since that is the main factor in motorcycle oils that use the same oil for both the engine and transmission, but I will be going with the full synthetic 15W-50 at my next oil change since our engine has a high RPM (11,000 RPM RedLine) unlike Cruisers/Choppers (6,000 RPM RedLine).
The video also states about using Fully synthetic oil is perfectly fine for break in, but is wasted because of having to change it so soon.
They add other interesting comments.

Last edited by Freeekonaleesh2; 01-21-2014 at 10:30 PM.
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post #8 of 9 Old 10-28-2014, 11:07 PM
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I put in full synthetic Repsol at the 600 mile oil change and haven't had any problems whatsoever.

I've rode the bike hard for over 3000 miles and never had one problem with the clutch slipping because of the synthetic oil.

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post #9 of 9 Old 12-27-2014, 08:55 AM
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General recommendations are that synthetic should't be used until the engine is broken in. This is a particularly important time if you want the piston rings to seal properly.
In general, a good mineral based oil will work very well. If you are putting extra loads, rpm, and heat cycles through the oil, a synthetic may be worth considering. In most countries, oil companies are allowed to market their hydrocracked group 3 mineral oils as synthetic. Where a true synthetic will be a group 4 oil. If you really want a synthetic, then maybe you should be aware of this.
Essentially you can use any oil that meets the standards recommendations in the service manual. Oils are classified by viscosity. Higher numbers equal thicker oils. They are also rated by various standard bodies, e.g. API or JASO. API ratings are expressed as SA, through to current SN oils. This isn't so much a quality, but a technical application rating. For instance, oils of SG ratings can be of great quality, but not compatible with catalytic converters, they have too much zinc and phosphorous anti wear additives (ZDP or ZDDP). JASO ratings have become more important with motorcycles over recent years. Certain anti friction additives, and the light viscosities used in modern car oils, can cause clutch slipping and gear face damage in bikes these days. So any bike with a clutch that runs in the engine oil will need a JASO MA rated oil. This certifies that the oil is designed for use with wet clutches.
The real advantage with synthetic oils is their viscosity stability. multigrade mineral oils use viscosity index improvers. These long chain polymers knit together to help the oils viscosity properties change as the oil warms. It is these viscosity index improvers that break down through shearing and heat cycles. Because synthetic oils don't use viscosity index improvers, they retain their viscosity for a longer period of time.
That said, good mineral oils that are changed regularly will provide excellent engine protection.
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